Between too much work, too little sleep, and seriously bad weather (OK, today’s much better!), I haven’t had the time or the energy to post the remaining photos. So, here they are now:
The capital of Croatia, Zagreb
The capital of Slovenia, Ljubljana
The former capital of Croatia, also the city where I went to high school, Varaždin
This one is just a bonus: Čakovec 
Well, our vacation is ending and neither one of us is too happy about it. At the same time, we both miss home and are returning filled with wonderful experiences and memories. We had lots of plans and didn’t get to do everything we hoped we would. We didn’t get to see all the people we wanted to see, either. There is something to look forward to for next year this way.
I owe you a bunch of photos and quite a few posts, and I promise to catch up as soon as we unpack and settle in. Of course, I will have to go get my iPhone first… 
As a child, growing up in a small town in the northwestern part of Croatia, I remember coming to Zagreb by train and walking next to Zrinjevac park on the way to the main square, now called Jelačič Plac. I also remember walking past a hotel which to me exuded all the elegance and wealth of a world and time I thought was long forgotten. I would peek through the curtains and look at the doormen in their red uniforms and wonder what it would be like to stay at a hotel like this. As a child, or even as a teenager, I don’t think I ever believed I would be a guest at Hotel Palace.
When I decided to come to Zagreb for a few days this summer, even though I had been invited by several friends to stay at their homes, there was no doubt in my mind as to what I would do. One can go to many different places and see many different things, but for some strange reason the longings I felt as a child are always stronger than the desires of my adulthood. And, I have to say, I am at this moment very proud of myself that I was actually able to do this for myself and my daughter.
I decided a while ago I would do everything in my power to give to myself all the experiences I felt I missed out on for many years. This just may be one of my favorite ones.
I’ve saved the best for last. It also turns out that the best part of our trip came on the last day when we visited Šibenik and its surroundings. Thanks to a wonderful and very smart young man (who is also devilishly handsome, might I add), my friend’s brother, we got a tour of Šibenik that has made this city my favorite in Croatia, thus surpassing Poreč which formerly held that spot in my heart.
There is nothing more rewarding than seeing a place with a person who truly knows and loves it. I am sure I would have loved Šibenik even if I had seen it on my own, but this was a really special experience which we all certainly appreciated.
With its 15th century cathedral, a fort with a million dollar view, and narrow stone streets which all lead down to the sea (or what we call Riva in Croatian — the place to sit, drink coffee, watch people and boats go by…), this city with a stormy past warrants an extended visit. I remember visiting Šibenik in 1989, right before the war, and I loved it then, but the city seems to have grown even more beautiful since. Maybe it was because of the pride of its inhabitants who managed to overcome years of destruction and economic hardship to finally come out on top, with Šibenik better than ever.
The location of the city is great as it allows many day trips to some equally beautiful spots, including Skradin (where Bill Gates apparently likes to vacation) and National Park Krka and its Skradinski buk, another waterfall park which is smaller than Plitvice, but no less beautiful.
If I had the time, I could write essays about this visit. I don’t. So, I am sharing some of my favorite shots:
There are numerous wonderful day trips one can make by boat from just about any larger town by the beach in Croatia. The island of Ugljan, about an hour away from Zadar, is a quiet, beautiful place where I can see myself spending weeks just lounging and sunbathing when I retire. (Looked into real estate, though. Am already outpriced.)
Of course, the photos of Ugljan are posted.
Kornati, an arhipelago of 89 islands, islets, and reefs located in the central Adriatic Sea are about as amazing a natural beauty as there is. The ease of visiting them, by boats leaving from just about any major harbor in central Dalmatia, is certainly a great advantage. For me, however, this last visit proved to be the tipping point to finally decide and start sailing classes as soon as I return to New York. I truly believe that nothing in the world surpasses sailing through the many islands in this perfect blue sea.
As a national nature park, Kornati are well-protected and for the most part uninhabited.There are about 20 restaurants on various islands, and a part of the archipelago land is privately owned mostly by people living on the island of Murter. There are a number of anchoring bays on the island for overnight stay.
When visiting the island on one of the organized tours, visitors get to see only a part of the national park, but most tours make a stop at Telaščića Nature Park on Dugi otok (Croatia’a Long Island, named because of its 45 kilometer length.) The sea is crystal clear, the view spectacular, and one can also go for a dip in the Salt Lake which apparently has healing medicinal power.
The only suggestion I have for the trip through Kornati: wear a lot of sunscreen!
Take a look at our photos of Kornati. You will understand why I plan to buy a sailboat when I grow up!
Nin, a tiny town close to Zadar, is best known as the seat of the princes of Dalmatia, and the seat of bishop Grgur ninski, who is known for his opposition to Pope in the 10th century and for introducing Croatian language to religious services.
With a population of about five thousand, and the heart of the town located on a tiny islet, this town is a true gem and one of the reasons why visiting Croatia is such a treat. The history and architecture of many of these small towns are unrivaled in many larger and more known countries.
The smallest cathedral in the world, St. Cross Church, the Church of Saint Nicholas (right outside of town), and the statue of Grgur ninski are the most significant sights. Wonderful little cafes are just a perk.
A picture of Nin is worth a thousand words.
Zadar is the fifth largest city in Croatia, the center of Zadar County, and the seat of a Roman Catholic archbishop.
The earliest traces of life in the city go back to prehistoric times, and St. Donat’s Church which dates back to 9th century is a pre-Romanesque church is a site definitely worth visiting.
The old town is a wonderful place to walk around, sit down for coffee or ice-cram, or shop. While the pedestrian zone that encircles the city is under construction/repair right now, the city is still quite enjoyable to visit. Also, many ferries to Croatian islands, as well as Italy run from Zadar, so its harbor is a busy spot.
Needless to say, we took a few photos of Zadar.
Plitvice Lakes National Parks is one of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Croatia. These breathtaking sixteen lakes are located very conveniently just off the highway connecting Zagreb with Split. The visit takes about five to six hours if you want to walk all the way around all the lakes, but even a two-hour visit can be quite a treat.
The waterfalls connecting the lakes are actually formed by natural dams which are the result of collection of algae and moss. The color of these lakes, which ranges from green to azure is also the result of different amounts of minerals in the water and depends on the light.
I remember visiting these lakes 26 years ago, the summer right before I started school. We stopped on our way back from the island of Pag. It is one of the happiest memories I have of my early childhood. Actually, those memories were the source of my only disappointment during this recent visit. I remember sitting in the middle of a forest, with tables and chairs made of tree trunks, eating the Croatian delicacy of čevapčići. I was really looking forward to doing the same thing with my daughter. Except, that section of the park is still closed. Unfortunately, the park was occupied by Serb paramilitary forces during the war in Croatia, and its facilities were used as army barracks at that time, some of them having sustained extensive damage.
Even with that little sad note, the morning we spent at Plitvice on our way to Zaton was one of the most rewarding trips we’ve ever taken. The natural beauty of the lakes and the delicate waterfalls that connect them are a sight that is difficult to match. If you won’t take my word for it, here is the proof.
