newyorčanka: the blog

Kornati, an arhipelago of 89 islands, islets, and reefs located in the central Adriatic Sea are about as amazing a natural beauty as there is. The ease of visiting them, by boats leaving from just about any major harbor in central Dalmatia, is certainly a great advantage. For me, however, this last visit proved to be the tipping point to finally decide and start sailing classes as soon as I return to New York. I truly believe that nothing in the world surpasses sailing through the many islands in this perfect blue sea.

As a national nature park, Kornati are well-protected and for the most part uninhabited.There are about 20 restaurants on various islands, and a part of the archipelago land is privately owned mostly by people living on the island of Murter. There are a number of anchoring bays on the island for overnight stay.

When visiting the island on one of the organized tours, visitors get to see only a part of the national park, but most tours make a stop at Telaščića Nature Park on Dugi otok (Croatia’a Long Island, named because of its 45 kilometer length.) The sea is crystal clear, the view spectacular, and one can also go for a dip in the Salt Lake which apparently has healing medicinal power.

The only suggestion I have for the trip through Kornati: wear a lot of sunscreen!

Take a look at our photos. You will understand why I plan to buy a sailboat when I grow up!

Nin, a tiny town close to Zadar, is best known as the seat of the princes of Dalmatia, and the seat of bishop Grgur ninski, who is known for his opposition to Pope in the 10th century and for introducing Croatian language to religious services.

With a population of about five thousand, and the heart of the town located on a tiny islet, this town is a true gem and one of the reasons why visiting Croatia is such a treat. The history and architecture of many of these small towns are unrivaled in many larger and more known countries.

The smallest cathedral in the world, St. Cross Church, the Church of Saint Nicholas (right outside of town), and the statue of Grgur ninski are the most significant sights. Wonderful little cafes are just a perk.

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Zadar is the fifth largest city in Croatia, the center of Zadar County, and the seat of a Roman Catholic archbishop.

The earliest traces of life in the city go back to prehistoric times, and St. Donat’s Church which dates back to 9th century is a pre-Romanesque church is a site definitely worth visiting.

The old town is a wonderful place to walk around, sit down for coffee or ice-cram, or shop. While the pedestrian zone that encircles the city is under construction/repair right now, the city is still quite enjoyable to visit. Also, many ferries to Croatian islands, as well as Italy run from Zadar, so its harbor is a busy spot.

Needless to say, we took a few photos.

Plitvice Lakes National Parks is one of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Croatia. These breathtaking sixteen lakes are located very conveniently just off the highway connecting Zagreb with Split. The visit takes about five to six hours if you want to walk all the way around all the lakes, but even a two-hour visit can be quite a treat.

The waterfalls connecting the lakes are actually formed by natural dams which are the result of collection of algae and moss. The color of these lakes, which ranges from green to azure is also the result of different amounts of minerals in the water and depends on the light.

I remember visiting these lakes 26 years ago, the summer right before I started school. We stopped on our way back from the island of Pag. It is one of the happiest memories I have of my early childhood. Actually, those memories were the source of my only disappointment during this recent visit. I remember sitting in the middle of a forest, with tables and chairs made of tree trunks, eating the Croatian delicacy of čevapčići. I was really looking forward to doing the same thing with my daughter. Except, that section of the park is still closed. Unfortunately, the park was occupied by Serb paramilitary forces during the war in Croatia, and its facilities were used as army barracks at that time, some of them having sustained extensive damage.

Even with that little sad note, the morning we spent at Plitvice on our way to Zaton was one of the most rewarding trips we’ve ever taken. The natural beauty of the lakes and the delicate waterfalls that connect them are a sight that is difficult to match. If you won’t take my word for it, here is the proof.

There is nothing quite as exciting as coming back home. One large part of the appeal (at least for me) is in the fact I get to leave when the vacation is over, but there is something beautifully reassuring about the place where you spent some twenty years of your life. For me, Čakovec is that place.

Located in the north of Croatia, some fifteen minutes away from the Hungarian and Slovenian border, Čakovec is the county seat of Međimurje, the second most populated county in Croatia (after the capital, Zagreb.)

The name of the town comes from its first owner, Count Csáky and dates back to the 13th century. The region had belonged to the Austro-Hungarian empire for a large part of its history, but was freed and joined Croatia in 1848.

The modern Čakovec, with the population of about 15,000, is a charming, fairly wealthy and fun town to live in. The industry is well developed, the city well taken care of, and the people are extremely friendly. I can’t say that it warrants a visit on its own, however, the neighboring Varaždin (which I will be writing about soon) and Čakovec would certainly make a lovely day trip from Zagreb.

Several photos are posted, however, the internet connection by the beach is a bit spotty (and incredibly expensive!), so more photos will follow as soon as we return.

On a slightly more personal note, out luggage has arrived!!! It didn’t quite make it before we headed to Zaton, but my wonderful Mommy had some clothes sent to us by bus, so we can continue to maintain our very stylish appearance!